East Pioneer Mountains

Backpacked July 12 & 13, 2016

18 Miles, 4054 ft gross elevation gain/loss

Recommended Season: Late June to Mid October depending on snow.

Looking into a solo backpacking route close to my home in Dillon, Montana it's natural to look at the Pioneer Mountains. The East Pioneers are particularly rugged offering great views to anyone willing to climb to get them and by careful trail selection backpackers can avoid trails with motorized use.

I decided on a route based on it's potential beauty and wanting to train for an August trip in the Wind Rivers. The route I had planned started from Brownes Lake, headed west over Rock Creek Pass, downhill past Tahepia Lake, then north past Teacup Lake over another pass with my overnight at Crescent Lake. So much for plans. Search as I might I could not find the Forest Service Trail that was supposed to turn north to Crescent Lake. I could have bushwhacked the route pretty easily but traveling alone over wet slippery terrain, and having promised Eve I wouldn't take any risks I didn't have to, I opted to spend my night at Schulz Lake instead. It was still a great trip despite the change of plan.

Mount Tahepia reflected in Schulz Lake early morning.

Trailhead

The trailhead isn't hard to find. All that's needed is a high clearance two-wheel drive and an adventurous spirit. Take Exit 85 off Interstate 15 between Melrose and Dillon, Montana. Turn Northwest from the Interstate and follow the signs to Brownes Lake. The road to the lake pretty well marked and in very good condition. Time to tighten your seat belt however, and continue driving the route along the lake's north shore through the scree slope. It's really not bad, just narrow if you meet another vehicle. Once beyond the lake relax a little and keep driving past several random campsites until you find a Forest Service outhouse to your left on the edge of a meadow. Park near the outhouse, you'll probably want to use it. The trail begins a very short distance up the road but it's best to park here.

Trail Conditions & Needed Skills

The trail follows an old road grade until you reach Waukena Lake where it becomes single track the rest of the way. After Waukena Lake the trail starts to get serious about gaining altitude but switchbacks keep it from being too steep. The trail is fairly easy to follow. I did manage to loose the trail in several inches of snow from a storm the night before but finding it again wasn't much of a challenge. Novice backcountry navigators may be challenged in a few locations however, as signage, where it exists at all, is pretty poor. Finding the continuing trail from Waukena Lake and the trail intersection at Tahepia Lake could be difficult. Bring your preferred GPS device and a map and compass backup.

Finding surface water is not a problem for most of this trail. The exception is Rock Creek Pass which is dry but there's plenty of water on both sides.

Finding suitable camping is not a problem. There are loads of good locations between the trailhead and Waukena Lake, several okay spots either side of Rock Creek Pass, and of course Tahepia and both Schulz Lakes have no shortage of pretty locations. I camped in a grove of small lodgepole at Schulz Lake for protection from two hours of hail, rain, thunder and lightening.

Blue sky morning over my Tarptent Notch.

Flora and Fauna

I was a little disappointed in the wildlife on my trip. This was not due to their lack mind you. Based on tracks and scat I had ample opportunity to see deer, bighorn sheep, elk, moose and even a wolf. But as luck would have it I saw only a deer and several golden-mantled ground squirrels.

Flowers, on the other hand, were everywhere. Columbine, paintbrush, shooting stars, mountain heath, sego lily, glacier lily, mountain death camas ... the list goes on.

Novelties and Conclusion

I wish I knew more of the area's history as the more westerly Schulz Lake has two log cabin ruins on the west shore. I don't know if these are vacation cabins or working cattle or sheep operations but they were fairly large as mountain cabins go. Perhaps someone will email me their story - please.

A ruined log cabin at Schulz Lake. Know any of it's history?

UPDATE 8/6/2016: Charlie O'Leary contacted me through Facebook about the above cabin ruin. He says: "All nice country which is why it is recommended wilderness. I think the cabins at Shultz are probably mining cabins. A few years back I found a well used miner's headlamp at nearby Teacup Lake which seemed odd since I know of no adits in that area. On a board at one of the cabins you'll find my brother's name "Butch O'Leary 67" from a trip we took up there while in high school. There was a rusty can dump there which we decided to bury, but we found a full large rust covered can of something and decided to take it with on our return down to Mono Creek. We opened it up at dinner time and it was cream style corn which we heated up and ate. Lucky we didn't all die of botulism! In 2009 our Back Country Horsemen group cleared the trail from Tahepia to Upper Shultz which provides for a small loop to hike or ride." And he posted the following photo I'm reposting with his permission. THANKS CHARLIE.

I'd recommend this route to backpackers looking for a quick overnight that's somewhat challenging yet beautiful with lots of wildlife potential.

Backpacked June 12-15, 2017

48 Miles Round Trip, 12 miles /day

Recommended Seasons: Spring May - Mid July. Fall September - Mid October.

Having enjoyed several day long trips along Idaho's Selway River in years past, it was only natural for us to consider it as an early season, low altitude, snow free, backpack. We were also sporting several items of new equipment so the Selway's gradual terrain and easy navigation made sense in case anything went sideways - it was an easy out should anything go wrong. What we didn't expect was the open beauty created by last years forest fire, increased sunshine, great views, abundant flowers and dense green vegetation.

Trailhead

Finding the Race Creek Campground, trailhead to Selway River Trail #4, isn't difficult, just time consuming considering how far it is from anywhere. Start by finding Highway 12 between Kooskia Idaho and Lolo Pass into Montana. Along that route is the cute tiny town of Lowell, Idaho which is also the confluence of the Selway and Lochsa Rivers creating the Middle Fork of the Clearwater River. Take the bridge across the Lochsa River and onto Route 223. Follow Route 223 to it's end and that's Race Creek Campground and Selway #4 Trailhead.

Terrain & Trail Conditions & Services

When I said the Selway River Trail is gradual don't get me wrong. It's gradual in the macro sense of rising only 630 ft in 24 miles. Looking at the trail in detail, or walking it on the ground, you'll quickly notice it rolls, sometimes steeply, up and down rising a collective 3124 ft. The surface is mostly good, sometimes rocky, often traversing steep slopes or cliffs plunging into the river. All significant streams are well bridged so we never had to wade. There were a few trees across the trail but we visited with a trail crew cutting them out.

The trail traverses several cliff faces on this route.

Lowell has little in the way of groceries or other services so bring all you need. Race Creek Campground has an outhouse but no potable water. Bring it or have a way to treat water from Race Creek. There is a Forest Service Airfield at where we turned around at Moose Creek. There is a fly-in campground there and potable water. Several forest service buildings at the airfield are not open to the public but there is a Host who can answer questions and directions.

Camping options abound along the Selway River Trail but their density reduces the farther you are from the trailhead. The same is true for water sources all of which are surface streams.

Wildlife

We wouldn't call The Selway River Trail a wildlife trail per se. We did see several deer, numerous small mammals, a garter snake and many bird species while hiking. Black bear scat was fairly common as were elk and moose tracks but we didn't see any of those critters. In years past we've seen rattlesnakes and porcupine along the trail but not this trip and they are rather easily avoided when encountered. We suggest keeping dogs under physical control to avoid mishaps.

Vegetation

The Selway River Trail excels at views and diverse vegetation. We had heard rumor the trail was 'green tunnel hiking' and were pleasantly surprised to find it untrue. A forest fire last year opened up much of this trail and renewed some nutrients for flowering plants. When where we live in Montana was just getting ready to bloom, the Selway was in full show.

Clarkia, one of the wildflowers blooming in early June.

Conclusions

We feel the Selway River Trail is an excellent option for early season backpacking. Especially for novices interested in honing skills or experienced folks testing new gear or wanting to get in shape for summer outings. Camping sites are common, water sources plentiful, tail conditions are good and there's enough going on to keep one's interest high.

2016 Trails

East Pioneer Mountains

Backpacked July 12 & 13, 2016

Backpacked June 12-15, 2017